Camera manuals and free digital camera pdf instructions. Find the user manual you need for your camera and more at Contax T3 Film Camera User Manual. Bass. INTAY. Instruction manual • Bedienungsanleitung Contax T3 has been designed according to the basic The Contax T3 is a 35mm lens-shutter. Free instruction manuals and owners manuals in pdf for your products Film cameras Contax-T3.
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The Contax T3 is a camera I instruchion about buying many times before I put my money down. The likes of the Olympus mju-ii and Pentax Espio Mini are cameras that come very close to being the absolute ideal carry everywhere camera for snaps, but for their own unique reasons ultimately they fall short of perfect.
Well, now I do. I take one when I walk the dogs round the block, when I walk to work, when pop into town to do a bit of shopping, when I go to meetings for work etc; literally everywhere.
By means of example, around the time I started making notes for this post, just after I manuxl the camera, we went out to the cinema one evening.
Contax T3, Italian version instruction manual, user manual, PDF manual, free manuals
It dontax also the cinema, a place not traditionally considered a hot spot for film photography outings, not to mention the fact that it was dark outside.
In short, opportunities for taking photos were limited, yet I still took a camera.
The point is I want a camera on me at all times. Largely speaking cameras are cumbersome things that hang off you with little regard for your comfort. Small is of course not the only specification for this hypothetical ideal carry everywhere camera, I also want it to be a good camera in many other ways.
It needs to be simple, yet have somewhat manipulatable function, jnstruction needs to have great lens quality and a useful focal length.
It also needs to be good value and since its going to go everywhere with me, it needs to be robust. All these things and more are important. And actually, when I add them all together, there are very few cameras that fit the bill… If any…. In terms of size, the Contax T3 measures up very well. Certainly comfortable in a instguction pocket, and disappears into my inside coat pocket.
It does though — in nearly the same way as the T2 — feel solid. Surprisingly I think the Contax T3 handles at least as well as the T2 too.
That said, the build quality definitely feels nicer than the Ricoh. I assume this is something special? This certainly seems to be the consensus anyway. I suspect, with due respect to my fellow camera reviewers, this is something taken from some marketing drivel somewhere that has gained weight as something positive. It is, as Manua say though, a very big bright easy to see through viewfinder, which is not the case with the Pentax… I suppose you can have it all…?!
Manual – Contax T3 Camera
I think perhaps the Minolta TC-1 has spoiled me somewhat in this regard; its mode wheel and forefinger driven mode value selector just seems so logical and quick to use. I shall come to the all these modes throughout the rest of the post, but for the sake of understanding I will just touch on accessing the custom function now. To access custom functions, the camera needs insteuction be switched off. Whilst off, press and hold the flash and mode button simultaneously. Alongside this you will see the current setting for custom function 1.
Having an aperture priority mode is as welcome as it is on any other advanced compact, but it too is a touch of a fiddle to access. To switch to aperture priority mode the little button in the middle of the dial has to be depressed. It also has to be depressed to switched back to program mode. This catches me out every single time. I think ultimately I ever so slightly prefer the lens-mounted aperture setting that the Minolta TC-1 and Contax T2 offer. All is not lost though…. One of he biggest disappointments with the Contax T2 is its close focusing distance of 70cm.
Whilst I am more than use to this limitation with my rangefinders, in the end it somehow felt a little more of a frustration with a compact camera. The Contax T3 deals with this frustration by halving the minimum focusing distance to 35cm, which really is quite an improvement.
Due to the movement of the lens, having it move after full press does slightly increase the impression of shutter lag. But this might be outweighed by the benefit of the camera feeling quieter to use. At the moment of writing this I have it set to after full press. Saying that, sometimes I might like to have the camera feel a touch quicker, so being instructino to switch for preference is definitely a bonus.
And ultimately for snaps it makes little or no difference when the lens moves, it still has to move and that still takes time. Kanual change when the camera focuses it is custom function 2. Again like the Fuji Klasse, the Contax T3 has a menu driven and fairly fiddly to use manual focus. With a depth of field of around 2. Depending on how frequently you shoot like this, the Contax T3 can also instructoin set up to your preference. If you shoot like this a lot, or want to spend a day out shooting this way, the chosen manual focus distance can be locked manuak.
But setting it 7b means that focusing has to be reset to auto manually. Even powering off and on again it will remember the set focused distance.
The final, and quite compelling function of the manual focus is the locked lens position. When in manual focus mode, the lens is moved to the selected focus distance and is locked there. In short, if you can find a comfortable distance to lock the lens in manual focus it can be a very fast camera to shoot with.
At least until you have to change the focused distance, which of course means delving back into the fiddly menu. Fortunately, returning to autofocus is as simple as tapping the AFL button. One of my favourite features of the Contax T2 was the light meter.
The constantly updating exposure information in the viewfinder is much more akin to a bigger camera. The Contax T3 thankfully retains this function. Exactly like its older brother, it only gives an idea of shutter speed by displaying one of four readings, either individually or in combination. With LT, standing for Long Imstruction. What these numbers mean really is as follows.
Full manual here — thanks Mr. The meter itself appears to be some sort of centre weighted meter, which is also fairly similar to its older brother the T2. The area it meters from is plenty small enough to be pointed around the frame to get an idea of best contaxx before taking the shot. It also has an ev range that goes right down to 1ev!!
For my tastes, for any camera to be an ideal carry everywhere camera, the ability to separate the point at which the camera is focused and that which it meters from is quite important.
A – C Other 35mm Cameras ORIGINAL Instruction Manuals
I had a feeling that the odd light might throw the meter. I locked focus on Connie, took a reading off the sofa behind her, outside of the frame, locked it in with a half press, reframed and shot. With the TC-1 there is a spot meter that allows exposure to be locked at a value independently from the action of half press to focus.
With the Contax, focus is the thing that is locked independently with the AF-L button.
So if you want to choose exposure independently of focus, you can lock focus on the subject by holding the AF-L button for a few seconds whilst pointing at said subject. Once focus is locked, you can then point the camera at unstruction you want to meter from, half press the shutter to lock the meter reading in, reframe and shoot. The shortfall of the Contax by comparison is that the AF-L button is on the top of the camera and has to be pressed and held for a mabual to use it.
This means the process is a little slower than it could manuak if it were under a thumb on the back. Interestingly this style of shooting is expanded upon with a custom mwnual. Setting CF6a will cancel the focused upon distance after the shot is taken, CF6b maintains the distance focused to until it is reset with another press of the AF-L button or the camera is switched off. But for me, I like the idea that it effectively brings the manual focus function out of the clumsy menu.
This is especially helped by the fact instrucyion screen on the top shows the distance the camera is locked to. Not having this on the AF-L function is a contwx quibble, but I do think it would round off the manual focus functionality of the camera nicely. Whilst on the subject of the AF-L button, using custom function 5 it is possible to set it to lock both auto exposure and auto focus.
CF5a sets instruciton to just lock focus, 5b sets it to lock both. Access to exposure compensation is through the menu button.
Unfortunately, this is all a bit limiting. Firstly, and this is especially useful for me at the moment, the exposure compensation is lockable. CF3a will mean exposure compensation is set for one shot, 3b will retain exposure compensation until the camera instrucyion turned off, 3c retains the settings permanently until they are changed again manually.
As you might have guessed, I have mannual set to lock permanently. Shot with Portra at ei to let me point and shoot without risking muddy shaddows. These are the self timer and manual shutter speed selection. Settings go from 1sec — sec. I mention this in the same paragraph as the self timer as without any means of remotely triggering the shutter, the self timer is ideally used in conjunction with the LT shutter modes. If this is a feature you think you instriction use a lot, then the Fuji Klasse is probably a better choice since it has the advantage of a threaded hole for a shutter release.
The self timer can also be set between 2 and 10 second modes. The former being more useful for LT shooting and the latter I suppose better suited to the old trick of setting the camera on a tripod and jumping into the photo. The usual suspects of flash off, flash on fill auto flash, auto flash with red eye and night portrait flash can be found.
This is done simply by holding the flash button until the mode starts blinking, pressing it again until the mode you want as default is selected, then leaving it for a few seconds until it stops blinking. Now next time the camera is turned off then on again, that will be the mode that remains. In the case of my Contaxt T3, that default is, and will always be, flash off! If you are a mid roll changer like I am sometimes clntax, or you develop your own film, CF1b is for you since it leaves the leader hanging out.
If you store your exposed film in the same box as your unexposed film, CF1a is nanual you as it winds the leader all the way into the instrutcion. If that leads you to an anticipation of it being quite good, you would be quite right… It is in fact exceptional.